NO, YOU CANNOT HAVE ME TRAIN YOUR DOG IN AUGUST!

 

Photo A copy 6421Training is Built One Brick at a Time

For all of you that have been reading (at least) some of my articles, I apologize to you.  This article is about nothing more than me venting over an issue that quick-fix dog training books and writers try to sell to the less educated. For the rest of you, and everyone that has been calling for me to train your dog for the month, I do not apologize and I will AGAIN explain how your lack of knowledge is impeding your dog.

Tell me what you think about the following statements.

“Hello Ms. Jordan. This is Johnny’s first day of kindergarten and he is very excited. However, you can only teach him during the month of September so make sure he is ready for first grade by October.”

“Johnny, say hi to Coach Ron. We are very excited about Johnny deciding to play football Coach. Please teach him how to play and we will pick him up before the NFL draft next month.”

“Hello Mr. Kaplan. Johnny is taking the SAT test next week. Please teach him the 2500 or so vocabulary words he may see on the test. He needs to know them for the test next week.”

These requests are of course ridiculous. Now ask yourself why is it any different with your dog? I cannot believe the number of telephone calls that I receive and the owner wants the dog trained in two weeks or a month. TRAINED TO DO WHAT? Most times, the dog has not had many birds, has never had an e-collar and although the owner denies it, the retrieve is terrible.

Why do owners think this is possible? Are other trainers making promises that I know are unrealistic? Is the quality of the training that poor? Or, is the expectation of the owner so low that a trainer can capitalize on it without providing proper training?

HERE IS WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW. Except for very specific training on single issues, I cannot, and WILL NOT, take a dog in for training for less than three months. If another trainer will, and indicates that they can get the training done, well good luck and call them. The reason for the three month minimum is pretty simple. It is about the longest that misinformed owners will send their dog away for training! It is also about the minimum time it can take to get the dog to perform regularly for the owner when they take the dog home.

Let me give you two extremes in Client dogs that came to us for training. The first is a very talented English Springer spaniel that is well-bred AND young (7-8 months when it came in for training). The first month, we introduced the dog to quail and pigeons so that it would get out into different cover and hunt for birds. We also began the foundation work for obedience. The second month, we introduced the dog to gunfire and completed e-collar conditioning and obedience in the yard. The third month, we transferred compliance to the field and started the dog with its patterning (proper use of the wind).

 

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 Foundation is Built One Month at a Time

At the end of three months, the owner came and got his dog. He now can take the dog out and hunt. He has already gone to the hunt club with his friends and shot birds over the dog. His dog complies with both verbal and whistle commands, hunts within gun range and retrieves. Most important, when the dog needs to be corrected, the foundation is in place and the owner can make a MILD correction with his voice, whistle or e-collar and the dog does not shut down. Trust me, this is as good as it gets! We were able to move the dog along quickly because a) it was a genetically talented dog, b) it came to us at a young age with limited issues, and c) the dog would already retrieve consistently.

At the other end of the spectrum is the dog that comes in for training and it either will not retrieve or it kills birds, meaning the bird is not fit for the dinner table. We are not talking about the dog that will not bring the bird back. We are talking about the dog that will not pick the bird up. I know that he will retrieve at home. But we do not train or hunt at your house.

We cannot do anything with this dog until it will retrieve or stop killing birds. That means we need to complete the “forced-retrieve” and it will take one to two months to complete. Our standard on the retrieve is VERY high. We have had many dogs in for training that have been through the forced-retrieve and still only retrieve some of the time. Well, in our program, that is not acceptable. Do it right the first time and it saves you money and aggravation later. If it is alright with you that the dog damages the birds then send your dog someplace else for training because it is not alright with us. We hunt and we put the game on the dinner table. If you go to the hunt club and shoot your birds and they get thrown away because you do not want them or because your dog destroyed them, then the truth is your are a shooter not a hunter/conversationalist and your hunting privileges should be suspended!

If it is going to take one or two months to get the retrieving fixed, it will obviously take longer to train your dog to an acceptable level. I am done hearing “…I am not looking for a world-class dog, I just want to go out a couple of times and shoot some birds and have Fido retrieve them.” This is a bunch of #$%^$. You ALL want that, but you want the dog to be better than your hunting buddy’s dog and you want people to comment about the quality of your dog. However, you routinely accept something less and will derive many excuses as to why your dog does not do this or that. The fact is, you just do not want to spend the money required, have the dog gone for the time required, have a lack of perspective on what a well-trained dog is capable of doing, or it is not a priority.

Now here is the good news. If it is not a priority to you than I am alright with that because it is YOUR dog. I just will not be training it for you. I do not see any other trainer being as honest with dog owners as I am being with this article. I am in business and I do not expand my business by telling Clients that they need to stop making unrealistic requests, stop buying every flavor of punch that is served to them and to start looking in the mirror. However, I do expand my business by educating dog owners to think about what they ask and what their expectations are. I understand the family does not want the dog to be gone. I understand that there is a fear that the dog may change if it is added to a professional kennel. I understand those things, but I DO KNOW what is best for getting your dog trained and making your time with your dog more enjoyable. If it just will not work for you to send your dog out for training, consider joining a training group. Try to find one that allows you to work under the guidance of a quality professional trainer, as most are coordinated by amateurs that know only a little more than you, if that.

CONDITIONING…IT IS MORE THAN JUST FINDING MORE BIRDS

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Exercise Program with Roading

Considering the extreme heat and humidity typical of the summer and fall (in the south), I believe it is important to discuss conditioning and the impact lack of conditioning can have on your dog. The first thing we need to settle is that NO dog can hunt all day. We hear this from people over and over. Fabricated Herculean tails of how their dog hunted all day and never missed a bird. In fact, it never slowed down!

Here is what I think: If your dog can hunt all day, then I do not want to hunt with your dog! There, I said it and I mean it. Let me explain and then you think about it.

Does a marathon runner have more energy in mile 24 as compared to the first mile of the race? Does a race horse have more energy at the end as compared to when they put the horse in the starting gate? Do YOU have more energy at the end of the work day as compared to the beginning? Do you really still think your dog can hunt all day?

There is no doubt that some dogs can run all day. However, the question is how hard are they running? They CANNOT run as hard as they do when the day starts. If they can, I would argue they are not running but merely trotting. I do not want to hunt over a dog that does not run hard. People that say they do not want a big running, hard charging dog because they want a dog that can hunt all day have no frame of reference. They probably have only hunted over untrained dogs that ran off and put the birds up out of gun range. As a result, they have determined they do not want that “big running” dog. It is a mistake.

Remember, we are talking about hunting over trained dogs. We should all be fortunate enough to hunt over the National Champion or any top-flight dog. When a dog is properly trained, a hard running dog finds more birds, not to mention that it is more exciting for us to walk behind.

Why do big running dogs find more birds? By covering more ground, they have more opportunity. But they are also able to cover more ground quickly because they are in better shape. Essentially, a dog finds birds with its nose. If it is breathing out of its mouth, it cannot smell as well. The better shape a dog is in, the more it breathes through its nose, thereby smelling more birds.

The obvious is that a properly conditioned dog covers more ground and keeps its nose longer; hence it has the opportunity to find more birds. Even with the extended and disciplined conditioning program we do, we only run our dogs for one hour. This is because I am a professional guide that is paid to get clients into wild birds. Our dogs run HARD for one hour and then we change to a fresh dog so that the clients are hunting over fresh dogs all day. This is easy for me because we have many dogs. For most people, they have only one or two dogs. As such, conditioning is vitally important for all of you.

We have just discussed why conditioning is important for us selfishly…more birds. Now let us discuss why it is good for your dog. A decade ago I was guiding in South Dakota on opening weekend. It was abnormally hot and over 120 dogs died in South Dakota hunting that weekend. That is right, over 120 dogs died. That figure does not include the dogs that were not reported or were never found. It is true that with the heat, some of those dogs may have died anyways. However, most of those dogs would have lived if they were properly conditioned, well trained and the owners had more information as to what to look for.

A dog’s normal temperature range is 101.0 to 102.5 degrees. Because the dog has limited ability to sweat (only small capability through its pads), its major cooling mechanism is via evaporative cooling (panting). It is normal for dogs to pant in all temperatures and also at rest or exercise. Nasal panting (inhalation and exhalation) generally occurs at rest or when running at slow speeds when ambient temperature is below 78.8 degrees. There are two OTHER types of panting that occur in dogs when resting and when running in ambient temperatures greater than 86.0 degrees. These are inhalation through the nose and exhalation through both the nose and mouth or inhalation and exhalation through both the nose and mouth.

Panting in and out through both the nose and mouth allows for the greatest volume of air passage and movement. This is the method of panting utilized for cooling when dogs reach exhaustion. It can occur very quickly in hot weather. Although this cools the dog, selfishly, it does not provide for the best scenting/finding birds.

Through a proper conditioning program, we can change the dog’s body to run at a cooler internal temperature. By doing this, we can delay the time-frame when the dog’s temperature will increase above 102.5 degrees and start the process of heat exhaustion. It is critical to recognize when your dog has had enough. From experience, I can tell you that a dog that only looks tired can have an internal temperature that continues to escalate and the dog does not overheat till 30 minutes AFTER exercise has completed. PAY ATTENTION AND WATCH YOUR DOG.

So now we know why WE want the dog in shape and we know why it is important for the dog’s health. So where do you begin? Most types of exercise are beneficial when compared to a dog sitting on the couch until gun season. However, some are better than others. Swimming is always a good option but keep in mind that the water temperature can also be high and your dog can overheat in the water as well. We believe running/roading the dog is the best way to concentrate the exercise.

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Exercise Program with Swimming

Our system is fairly complicated and I would not suggest it for most people as it requires a significant time commitment. What we do suggest is a minimum of a six-week conditioning program BEYOND regular exercise throughout the year. Start the program six weeks prior to when you begin your hunting season. Our dogs start the program by running two miles at a speed of 12 miles per hour.

Run your dog every other day for two miles at 6-8 miles per hour. After doing this for five days of exercise (10 days including rest days), increase the distance by ½ mile. Again, do this for five exercise days and then increase the distance by ½ mile. Continue this pattern for the six weeks and you will end with a dog that is running approximately 3.5 miles at about 8 miles per hour.

This may not sound like a lot; however, it is a major accomplishment. By having the dog attached to your bicycle (with a speedometer), you can concentrate the effort of the exercise on a consistent speed for the ENTIRE distance. If allowed to free run, a dog will run sometimes and loaf others, thus diminishing the effort. By keeping the constant exercise effort, your dog will build a reasonable base of fitness that they can build on during the season. At 8 miles per hour and running for 3.5 miles, your dog will be running approximately 28 minutes without a break or rest. When compared to hunting, your dog will hunt longer due to the constant stopping to “investigate” game scent. Keep in mind that this is only building a minimum base on which to build. For most of you, this is sufficient when considering the time commitment versus the time you will actually spend in the field.

NOTE: If your dog cannot run two miles at 6 to 8 miles per hour, I suggest you follow our program but you will need to start it sooner so you can work the dog up to two miles.

Introduction To The Gun

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 Gun Introduction Should Be With Birds

There are many ways that people introduce their dog to the gun. Many people will bang pots and pans while feeding. Others will fire a gun while feeding and still others will take the dog to a gun range. WHILE I AGREE THAT THIS SOMETIMES WORKS, I DO NOT THINK IT IS THE BEST WAY TO INTRODUCE THE GUN.

Dogs are predisposed to a fear of loud noises. It is a genetic survival trait that every dog has in them, although, it will manifest itself in only some dogs. I do not know which dogs will develop the fear so I need to insure that it does not happen to our dogs. A fear of the gun is created by man. Therefore, we are going to use a bird to introduce the dog to the gun. We have spent all summer making the dog crazy for birds so why not use what it wants as an enticement?

We start the gun introduction when our puppy is AGGRESSIVELY chasing birds. This may mean that the puppy is chasing for 200 yards or it may mean that the puppy is chasing for 50 yards. The point is that it must be chasing aggressively. Some dogs will not chase a lot and that is fine, as long as they are showing that they really want the bird for the short time that they chase.

We use a clip-winged pigeon (one that will sail in the air but will not fly away) because I have never seen my training partners miss a bird. Actually, Frank has hit about 100 straight without a miss and we do not want to break his streak. Frank will stand approximately 100 yards away with a blank pistol that is shooting crimps. I will tease the puppy with the bird and throw it in the opposite direction from Frank. Just as the bird is about to hit the ground AND if the puppy is chasing it I will raise my hand and Frank will shoot the blank pistol.

The easiest thing is for Frank to stay where he is and for me to move closer. Depending on how the puppy is doing, I will generally move closer to Frank by about ten yards and repeat the process until I am standing next to Frank. While completing this process, I will mix in a bunch of throws with no shot from Frank so that I can assess how the puppy is doing.

That is essentially the process. When the puppy is comfortable with the blank gun, we can start the process over with a .410 then a 28-g and a 20-g. This is where we generally will stop the process. As a precaution, we hunt the young dogs with only a 20-g. and only a single shot for the entire first season. There is no NEED to do this, as you can also do the gun introduction with a 12-g. However, I am paranoid about the gun and do not ever want to have a gun issue with our dogs. Also, more dogs become gun-shy with a second and third shot as compared with the first shot so that is why we will hunt the entire first season with only one shell in the gun.

Do not trust your friends that they will only fire once because they will not. It is not that they are PURPOSELY trying to ruin your dog it is that they do not care about your dog. They want to shoot the bird and if they miss on the first shot, they will instinctively fire the second shot. This is why we use clip-winged pigeons to start because Frank cannot miss…the bird ALWAYS comes down. It is also why a dove shoot, duck blind or pheasant drive is so dangerous for a young dog. Repeated gun fire without the positive association is detrimental. If you err on the side of caution you will be fine.

I Simply Wish These Dogs Would Retrieve

Advanced Water Retrieves Include Moving Water

Idaho Hunting Trip 2007

Over the past few years, we have observed a consistent problem with the dogs we get in for training at Craney Hill Kennel. The problem is exhibited in many fashions, such as butter-mouth, hard-mouth, refusal, avoidance, playing, etc. However, the problem is the same in all instances. These dogs will not retrieve. As you might guess, my philosophy on retrieving is different than most opinions. First of all, I believe that retrieving is the act of leaving from one place to go to another and pick something up. The item may be thrown, as in a mark, or just an object lying out there, as in a blind retrieve. Once the dog picks up the object, I believe retrieving is over and obedience begins.

The other big difference I have regarding retrieving is the term “natural retriever” that is thrown around as a cliché to promote the sale of a breeder’s or trainer’s dogs. The fact is that what we think of as a natural retriever is not natural at all. In nature, the dog picks an object up and runs off with it. Unless it is bringing food back to a litter of puppies, there is no retrieving in nature. So the next time that your puppy runs out and picks up an object that was thrown and then runs off with it, remember that HE IS ACTING LIKE A NATURAL RETRIEVER.

I think that this is a fundamental problem with the dogs that we see coming in for training. I am left to theorize (albeit with many years of experience) that many of the problems stem from a lack of understanding of what a dog is. We have covered some of this before, but again, your dog does not want you to have the bird, training dummy, stick, tennis ball or whatever. Most dogs have a genetic desire to run after the object because they are canines (PRONOUNCED PREDITOR). If left completely alone, most dogs will also pick the object up.

The training problems begin once WE try to get the dog to bring the object back. We yell instructions, whisper sweet things to encourage them and then there is my personal favorite; the proverbial “hunt it up” command. If the dog survives all of the “encouragement” and picks the object up, it is generally then subjected to another rash of hooting and hollering to try to get him to bring the object back. All of this talking is making the dog apprehensive because it does not know what you are saying. Your voice tends to increase in volume and you may start moving towards the dog. Once that happens, the dog either drops the object or runs further away. If the owner continues to work with the dog and continues to give all of these commands (PRONOUNCED PRESSURE), it is very possible that the dog will stop picking the object up all together or will start to damage birds.

I propose that there is a better way to get your dog to retrieve. I will save all of the discussion of rolled socks in a hallway, building a retrieving corridor in the yard or running away from the puppy to get him to follow you. These are all easy training tools that have been written about more than enough and you should be able to easily find information regarding them. Our plan evolves only two rules…start early and do not move.

Scott and Fuller (1965, Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog) made a very surprising discovery when they were not able to start a retrieving experiment as early as they had hoped. They originally planned on completing the experiment when the puppies were nine weeks old but had to delay it until the puppies were 32 weeks of age. The result was that only 11.0 percent of the dogs retrieved the object and released it to the owner. Now I think this is an impressive study; however, all dogs can be trained to retrieve so if the low success rate was the only result, we could just train the dogs to retrieve. However, the most important result of the study was that Scott and Fuller also observed that the puppies that began retrieving at 32 weeks of age were harder to train. This means that if a dog does not learn to retrieve at an early age, it has missed the imprinting stage and the lack of learning during this impressionable period is largely irreversible.

The importance of retrieving is also voiced in other arenas. The single most reliable indicator of a puppy’s general temperament and potential as a companion or working dog is revealed by the puppy’s willingness to retrieve. As an evaluator at Biosensor (U.S. Army Superdog Program), Lindsay (2000, Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training) opined that the most reliable predictor among young puppies (eight to ten weeks) for success as military dog prospects was an avidity for ball play. Also, Pfaffenberger (1963, The New knowledge of Dog Behavior) reports a strong link between retrieving at a young age and later success in training as an adult guide dog. The conclusion is that starting retrieving at a young age has positive behavioral training benefits as the dog ages.

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 Advanced Land Retrieves Include Long Marks

When retrieving with your young puppy, you will of course start by tossing the object only a short distance. As you will begin retrieving prior to ten weeks of age, I will assume that the puppy will pick up the object. Initially, the puppy will bring the object back to you, or reasonably close. In a short time, your puppy that was retrieving so well will become a “natural” retriever and start running off with the object. A certain amount of this would be acceptable and if you have shown the puppy in the past what “here” means, it is relatively easy to solve. However, I cannot stress enough that going after the puppy or yelling at it is a mistake. I suggest that you take a seat and in most cases the puppy will come to you after a little time (having a few treats in your pocket to give him when he returns will help for the next time). As I said, DON’T MOVE.

These two rules, when used together, will significantly improve your puppy’s retrieving. It will also make your trainer happier and your wallet fuller. It is simple economics. If your trainer needs to spend time teaching the dog basic retrieving, it is time and money not spent on other things. Since you will generally have the puppy until it is five or six months of age anyway, YOU will be the one to teach the puppy to retrieve correctly during the imprinting period of its life.

 Todd says, “If a dog can produce the wild bird that the fox, coyote, weasel and hawk missed, then they would be of a caliber that any hunter would be proud to own.”